The Ashes: A Tale of Sea, Sand, and Cricket's Greatest Rivalry
The Ashes: When a Legend Refused to Run
In the world of cricket, the Ashes series is an iconic battle, a clash of two nations separated by vast oceans and an even greater rivalry. But here's where it gets controversial: what happens when the journey to the Ashes becomes a story in itself?
Today, we delve into a unique chapter in cricket history, a time when England's cricketers embarked on a voyage across the seas, a journey that would shape their team spirit and, perhaps, their fate on the cricket field.
The Ashes Romance: A 10,000-Mile Journey
The Ashes, a series steeped in tradition, brings together England and Australia, nations divided by half the world, creating a sporting pilgrimage like no other.
Imagine the scene: Ben Stokes and his England squad of 2025-26, stepping onto Australian soil, immediately greeted by the local media's hostile gaze. Stokes, splashed across the front page of The West Australian, knew the challenge that lay ahead.
But for Stokes and his men, the journey was a comfortable one, with airport lounges, business class, and even beds in the sky (a less restful experience for Mark Wood, an anxious flyer).
Contrast this with the past, when English cricketers traveled to Australia by boat, enduring weeks at sea. A modern cricketer might balk at such an adventure, but for David Larter, it was a dream come true.
A Dream Voyage: The Last England Squad to Sail
David Larter, now 85, recalls his experience as part of the last England squad to reach Australia by ship in 1962-63. He describes it as a magical time, a chance to bond with his teammates and create a cohesive unit.
"You savored every moment on that ocean liner. It was a unique lifestyle, and the Marylebone Cricket Club ensured we traveled in style. We had a mix of millionaires seeking sun and us young cricketers. It was an extraordinary experience."
Larter's journey began in London, more than two months before the first Test, with a flight to Aden, followed by a 10-day voyage on the high seas to Perth.
At just 22, Larter, a 6ft 7in bowler with a lively pace, was the youngest in a squad led by Ted Dexter. He had made his Test debut against Pakistan that year, just two years after his first-class debut for Northamptonshire.
England was determined to reclaim the Ashes after a 2-1 defeat on home soil in 1961.
Life on the High Seas: Food, Fitness, and Fun
On the ship, Larter and his teammates enjoyed a feast of magnificent eating, with stewards catering to their every culinary desire. But with an Ashes series ahead, they had to maintain their fitness.
"We had morning exercise sessions, badminton courts, and weights. We did our best to stay active, but it was a challenge."
Enter Gordon Pirie, a British athlete and Olympic silver medalist, who happened to be on board. Pirie suggested a unique fitness routine: running around the boat.
"It was quite a distance, but I did as I was told. Not everyone was as agreeable. Fred Trueman, a man of strong opinions, had bowled over 1,100 overs that summer and wasn't about to run around a boat. He believed playing cricket was the best way to stay fit."
A Social Journey: Meeting New People, Learning New Cultures
Larter's voyage wasn't just about cricket. It was a chance to meet people from all walks of life. On the upper deck, he mingled with wealthy travelers, and downstairs, he encountered fellow Englishmen emigrating to Australia.
"The reception downstairs was incredible. We met people emigrating, starting new lives. It was fascinating. There were great bars, and we could enjoy a quiet pint."
The journey to Perth wasn't direct. England even stopped in Sri Lanka to play a game in Colombo, an unexpected detour.
"I lost my land legs in Sri Lanka. I couldn't get my balance right after being on the boat. It was a surreal experience, going from a small town in Suffolk to a beach in Sri Lanka. It opened my eyes to a whole new world."
The Duke's Tour: A Royal Presence, A Social Challenge
The 1962-63 tour had a surprise tour manager: Bernard Fitzalan-Howard, the 16th Duke of Norfolk. Larter recalls the respect and formality that came with the Duke's presence.
"You had to address him as 'Your Grace' in the morning and 'Sir' for the rest of the day. He surprised us with his knowledge of cricket and his interest in us. But his social status was several scales above ours."
Trueman, known for his outspoken nature, found the Duke's presence, along with the Reverend David Sheppard and Dexter's wife Susan, a distraction. He felt the media focused more on these social aspects than on the cricket.
Aussie Lifestyle, Aussie Results
Larter embraced the Australian lifestyle, living off his tour fee of £1,250, an amount worth over £23,000 today. He was offered jobs and considered moving to Australia.
"I almost thought this was the place for me. I could have settled here. But I never felt the need to call home. It was a wonderful experience."
Despite his success in New Zealand, where he played in all three Tests and picked up seven wickets in the series opener, Larter's Ashes journey was bittersweet. He didn't play a Test in Australia, stuck behind Trueman and Statham in the pecking order.
England won the second Test in Melbourne, but Australia leveled the series in Sydney. Two more draws meant Australia retained the Ashes.
A Legacy Remembered
Larter's Ashes journey, though filled with highs and lows, remains a cherished memory. He now lives in mid-Wales with his wife, Thelma, and his ceremonial England cap and team photo from the 1962-63 tour are reminders of that incredible experience.
"It was unbelievable, in the truest sense of the word. I couldn't have imagined it, but it happened. Despite not playing, it was the time of my life."
The Ashes: Australia v England
21 November 2025 - 7 January 2026
Catch all the action on iPlayer, BBC Sport website, and app. Enjoy ball-by-ball commentary on BBC Sounds, BBC Radio 5 Sports Extra, and the BBC Sport website and app, with live text commentary and daily features and analysis.
And this is the part most people miss: the stories behind the Ashes, the journeys, the sacrifices, and the legacies. What do you think? Is the journey as important as the destination in the world of cricket? Share your thoughts in the comments below!
